The January wind doeth blow, but there is new growth in our ocean flowers
Foraging is good for the soul and some seaweeds you gather may have the wow, umani factor
In Northern parts, the snowdrops have yet to peep through snow banked ditches, and Jack by the Hedge (Jack is Ramsons or Wild Garlic’s earlier and less pungent partner in garlic crime) has yet to raise its budding head. But seaweeds: brown, red and green are rejuvenating. The bounty of the ocean floor is ready for gathering long before the terrestrial wild greens.
My recipe is for when the wind may still be bitter, but the days are noticeably beginning to lengthen. In my recipe, I use the seaweed, sea spaghetti. Early in the season this seaweed may be eaten raw from the rocks. It’s delicious. Unlike many seaweeds this species is available in supermarkets.
Sea spaghetti is also known as buttonweed due to its distinctive hold fast (which attaches the seaweed to the rock). It’s popular in France where it is called spaghetti de la mere. Sea haricot may allude to French interest too. Another non botanical name is thong weed. The more academic amongst you may prefer to call this seaweed, Himanthalia elongata. The translation of elongata (long) will help you with this seaweed’s identification.
Raw and vegan, sea spaghetti ticks lots of dietary boxes. There are more recipes in my book Seaweed in the Kitchen
Sea Spaghetti and Pepper Dulse
This recipe is perfect for early spring. It combines the earthy texture of winter’s celeriac with new growth sea spaghetti
Serves 4
400g fresh young sea spaghetti
450g celeriac
Large carrot
Juice half a small lemon
For the dressing
2tsps finely grated fresh ginger
2tbsps rice vinegar
Black pepper (few twists)
4tbsps creamy yoghurt
2 tbsps toasted sesame seeds
3 tbsps olive oil
Cut the sea spaghetti into fork-easy lengths. Pop half of the sea spaghetti into a colander and pour over a kettle of boiling water. It will turn green. Set aside to cool.
Peel the celeriac and cut it into match sized pieces. No bigger. This is hard work.Use a food processor if you are time short but the salad won’t be as textured. Put the celeriac strips in a bowl, add the lemon juice and toss well. (lemon juice to prevent discolouration).
Cut the carrot in a similar fashion and add to the prepared celeriac.
Make the dressing.
Blend the rice vinegar, black pepper, toasted seeds and yoghurt together. Whisk in the oil and pour the dressing over the prepared root vegetables.
Toss well, season to taste and add the sea vegetables. Lightly mix the sea and root vegetables and leave for ten minutes before serving.
A sinkful of gifts from the seaside